![]() Aside of buying a new lock (probably a better one anyway), you will also have to buy a new bike – which is never cheaper than a solid lock. Just consider the situation you buy a poor lock and get your bike stolen. (Unless you’re looking for something extremely specific – for instance as low weight as possible for whatever price – then you’re better off with a specific search among innovation projects.) Not all locks have a fair price, but if you choose conscientiously, it is undoubtedly and absolutely an investment worth its cost. In all this mess, lock types are probably the best anchors. ![]() Obviously, there is a lot of brand marketing, innovations play a huge role in price-making, the aforementioned security ratings and finally, prices correlate with the type of the lock. There are huge differences in lock prices. So, when determining a security level of a lock, simply find a lock with the same internal rating that also has an ART or Sold Secure rating, and you can be quite sure you’re getting what you pay for. Same internal rating usually means also comparable objective security. Bigger brands such as Kryptonite, ABUS or OnGuard usually have internal security ratings (which significantly vary from one another). In case you have – or decide to go with – an unrated lock, there’s one more tool to use: private (internal) ratings. Note: There is unfortunately no such thing as “LOW” risk place for bike theft in the Netherlands. ![]() Second lock recommended (some basic, non-rated should suffice)ĪRT3+ or Sold Secure Gold AND a second lock (non-rated or MID security is fine)ĪRT4+ or Sold Secure Gold AND a second lock (MID security and above, based on how much you value your bike) Here’s a tool for you:ĪRT3+ or Sold Secure Gold. Question that still stands – how secure lock do you actually need? Answer: it depends on multiple factors, such as price (and looks) of your bike, place of frequent parking, periods you leave the bike unguarded. There’s, however, a plethora of awesome unrated locks, too – so if you happen to have one without a rating, no need to sell and change asap. In general, both provide an awesome benchmark to start with, and in case you’re not more knowledgeable about locks than average bike thief, we’d recommend picking a certified lock. In addition, ART is a bit more strict with the ratings, Sold Secure is said to test more locks (although on Dutch market we did not notice such thing). Tested locks sometimes overshadow other, same quality and cheaper locks only because they have the rating. Tested locks tend to be more expensive (usually couple €) Neither ART or Sold Secure do not test ALL locks (that would probably be impossible) – manufacturers need to pay to have their lock tested So if you decide to insure the bike in the future, you don’t need to change the lock. Insurers often even require them – in the NL usually ART locks – to insure the bike. Huge variety of tools is used, different approaches are taken (brute force vs. The tests are standardised – so you can actually compare different brand’s and lock types objective security They are independent – same criteria for all, no favourites or bought ratings Some pros and cons of using the rating organizations’ advice: Rating is stated in the bottom of the badge. By now the choice is now quite narrow, so it’s time to pick your favourite one. This way you do not compromise on your bike’s security, but also don’t pay more than needed.ģ. There are more things to consider, such as price or convenience, and those usually offset one another, so let’s do that next. Choose the type of the lock that suits your budget and needs. That’s what you need – to secure your bike – right? So let’s decide on this one first.Ģ. Choose the minimum security level you will need. We’ll help you battle the task down into simpler steps. But then, how are you supposed to choose? Should you look for some specific brand? Or type of lock? How much should you invest? Add all individual circumstances (cheap vs expensive bike, place of parking the bike etc) and it gets quite overwhelming. ![]() There’s always a possibility of “just buying something and see”, but 400.000 Dutch bikers losing their rides each year would probably advise you otherwise. Questions are: How secure do you really need your lock to be? Where is the borderline between secure and practical? And how much should you pay for such a piece?Ĭhoosing the right lock gets surprisingly confusing, once you decide to make it a conscientious choice. First of all: with enough time and the right tools, ALL bike locks can be beaten.
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